Copyright, 1918, by
Robert M. McBride & Co.

Published May, 1918

TO
M. H. R.
Kinswoman most dear
This little volume is affectionately inscribed.

PREFACE

No part of the United States is so foreignof aspect as our great Southwest. Thebroad, lonely plains, the deserts with theirmystery and color, the dry water courses,the long, low mountain chains seeminglybare of vegetation, the oases of cultivationwhere the fruits of the Orient flourish, thebrilliant sunshine, the deliciousness of thepure, dry air—all this suggests Syria ornorthern Africa or Spain. Added to thisare the remains everywhere of an old, oldcivilization that once lived out its life here—itmay have been when Nineveh was buildingor when Thebes was young. Moreover,there is the contemporary interest of Indianand Mexican life such as no other part ofthe country affords.

In this little volume the author has attempted,in addition to outlining practicalxinformation for the traveler, to hint at thiswealth of human association that gives thecrowning touch to the Southwest’s charmof scenery. The records of Spanish explorersand missionaries, the legends of theaborigines (whose myths and folklore havebeen studied and recorded by scholars likeBandelier, Matthews, Hough, Cushing,Stevenson, Hodge, Lummis, and others)furnish the raw material of a great nativeliterature. Painters long since discoveredthe fascination of our Southwest; writers,as yet, have scarcely awakened to it.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I Santa Fe, the Royal City of St. Francis’s Holy Faith 1

II The Upper Rio Grande, its Pueblos and Cliff Dwellings 20

III Roundabout Albuquerque 43

IV The Dead Cities of the Salines 56

V Of Acoma, City of the Marvellous Rock; and Laguna 68

VI To Zuñi, the Center of the Earth, via Gallup 82

VII El Morro, the Autograph Rock of the Conquistadores 93

VIII The Storied Land of the Navajo<

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